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DISCLAIMER: The procedures, methods and products written up here were for my circumstances only. I make no assertions that your results will be the same nor do I claim that this is the best way to do it. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!
These instructions will work with 12.2", 13", and 14" rotor applications.
Disassembly
1. Loosen lug nuts on the front two wheels.
2. Lift front end with a jack and place jack stands under the lower control arms. The lower control arms must be supported.
3. Remove both wheels.
4. Remove two bolts from the back side of the spindle marked A in the picture. Hold the caliper while you remove the second bolt. Lift caliper off of rotor. With wire tie the caliper to the upper control arm out of the way.
5. Remove two bolts holding break line to the spindle marked B in the picture.
6. You should now be able to untie the caliper and lay it on the ground still connected to the brake line.
7. Remove rotor by unscrewing two screws marked A, and sliding rotor off of wheel studs.
8. Clean and de-grease the spindle with brake cleaner.
Assembly of Wilwood Kit
9. Prepare new brackets for mounting. Take two large brass colored bolts put matching lock washer, spacer sleeve like in the picture. Put Loctite 271 on bolt. Place bolt through the front side of the spindle which is opposite of how the stock calipers were mounted using the top hole. Once bolt is through the spindle add on shim. (If you are installing the 12.2î or the 14î you can use the same procedure.)
10. Now line up bolt with bracket and tighten top bolt to the bracket finger tight.
11. Follow the same procedure for the bottom hole.
12. Torque both bolts to 65 ft-lbs
13. Clean rotor surface with brake cleaner on both sides. Spray brake cleaner on a towel to and clean with a towel. Do Not Spray hats with break cleaner as it may damage the finish.
14. Place rotors on the wheel studs, and make sure that screw holes line up. You will also notice that with the 13î rotors that they will make contact with the OEM dust shield. Note: You can either remove the shields all together by undoing the three screws and then cutting them off or you can use tin snips and trim the dust cover at points A, B, and C. You may also have to bend the dust cover at point B and C to ensure the dust cover doesnít rub on the rotor. You will not be able to put the rotor on properly unless you take one of these actions.
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15. Put two screws back into rotor to hold rotor in place.
16. Prepare new Wilwood calipers for mounting. Take right angle brass connector supplied with stainless steel brake lines and screw it into the back of the caliper. Be careful not to over tighten as it is made of brass and will break or strip.
17. Take two hex bolt, two lock washers, and two shims as in picture.
Place one bolt and lock washer through the top hole. On backside of caliper place one spacer. Line up top bolt on caliper with the top hole on the bracket. You will need to center the caliper over the rotor. Make sure that the caliper bleed screws are pointing up. Only finger tighten the top bolt. Do the same process for the bottom bolt. (If you are installing the 12.2î or 14î rotor kit you do not need the shim between the caliper and bracket.)
18. Torque both hex bolts to 45 ft-lbs.
19. Make sure everything is square.
20. Remove caliper center bridge pad retaining bolt, nut, and tub from caliper.
21. Slide brake pads into place. They should install easily without interference. Make sure the pads are facing the rotors.
22. Reinstall the caliper center bridge pad retainer, tube, bolt and lock nut. The locknut should be snug without play in the bolt or tube. Be cautious not to over tighten.
23. Place wheel back onto the front spindle and check clearances. I did not need a wheel spacer with my 18î Volk LE37T wheels. If you need a wheel spacer put it on over the wheel studs before placing the wheel on.
Once all of the clearances are check take the wheel back off.
24. Remove existing brake lines from the car.
25. Install new stainless steel brake lines supplied with the kit.
26. Go to the other side and complete steps 3-25 again.
27. Bleed the brakes. You need to start with the driverís front caliper using the outside bleeder screw on the caliper and then moving to the inner.
28. Complete the same procedure on the other side.
29. Once bleeding is complete remount both wheels, and remove car from jack stands.
30. Once car is back on the ground torque all wheel lugs to 80 ft-lbs.
CONGRATULATIONS the install is done.
3. Remove the five black plastic fastners three across the top by the trunk and 2 on the bottom by the mufflers.
4. Carefully remove the cover from the sides pushing up from the bottom of the cover while pulling out. The cover should now be removed.
5. Dry fit the new rear cover installing in the oppisite as you removed it.
6. Measure the distance from the bottom of the cover to the bracket to determine the size of the bracket adapter you will have to make. My brackets were 1.5" on the top and bottom and 2" between the top and bottom.
I made my brackets out of stock aluminium I bought at home depot. Drill one hole on the bottom to fit the factory fastner and the second hole on top to fit the bolt you are using to mount the bracket.
7. Remove the cover and have it painted.
8. Reinstall the cover the way you took it off. Use the adapter bracket you made to mount the bottom of the cover to the car.
Install the five fastners, two screws and two bolts. Put the wheels back on and you are done.
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